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Tremaine Emory Says Denim Tears Will Open More Shops: ‘I Want Each Store to Express Parts of the Diaspora’

The brand is bringing a flagship to Tokyo and plans to expand to more cities.

By Precious Fondren
Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for WSJ. Magazine Innovators Awards

Denim Tears wants you to shop IRL again. 

In a new interview with The Business of Fashion, the brand’s founder, Tremaine Emory, says the clothing label has plans to open brick-and-mortar store beyond its flagship in New York’s Soho neighborhood. 

According to the BOF, Denim will open a location Tokyo next year, and hopes to expand to Atlanta, Chicago, Houston, Philadelphia, Portland, and Los Angeles, no opening dates for which were given. Like his first store in Soho, Emory told BOF that the new ones will hold space for all thing cultural, like books on the African diaspora, not just clothes. 

“I want each store to express parts of the diaspora through a collection [of Black ephemera],” he said. “There’s so much that needs to be saved and preserved for future generations and our stores can play a part in that.”

The brand is mostly known for its cotton-wreath design stitched across its jackets, pants, and hoodies. DT was also included in the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute exhibitions Superfine: Tailoring Black Style and America: A Lexicon in Fashion.

Opened in 2024, Denim Tears' New York flagship, African Diaspora Goods, occupies the space Union and Stüssy once did. 

The announcement of expansion follows Emory’s headline-making exit from Supreme in 2023, where he served as creative director for just over a year. In a public statement, Emory said he left due to “systemic racism” in the brand’s leadership structure. 

On Saturday, July 26, Emory will host the Denim Tears x Hot 97 Summer Block Party outside the Soho store. The daylong celebration will feature a performance from Clipse.